![]() The transformation of what was once a bank into a 153-room luxury hotel took a decade and included the addition of a modern 24-story tower alongside the original neo-Classical style structure. Opening next month, the Fifth Avenue Hotel occupies a 1907 McKim, Mead & White-designed building on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 28th Street in New York’s ever-evolving NoMad neighborhood. The Thing: Jewel-Toned Glass Lamps From Hermès “Sometimes,” says Munk, “you’ll pay even more money for snail eggs than you do for caviar.” - Lauren Joseph Snail eggs, which have a mushroomlike flavor, have the same visual appeal despite their earthy taste. Although white caviar stock is limited, they aren’t the only pale orbs worth chasing. And at the omakase restaurant the Araki in London, the chef Marty Lau slices white cuttlefish and squid into fine ribbons and tops them with a spoonful of golden roe. The monochromatic presentation allows diners to be “more cognizant of what actually tasting,” says the restaurant’s owner, Angie Mar, 41, who describes albino caviar as “supple and velvety.” Rasmus Munk, 32, the chef and co-owner of Alchemist in Copenhagen, is drawn to albino caviar’s “beautiful aroma of butter and creamy texture.” He serves it atop a square of crisp, sourdough-flavored freeze-dried milk born of his collaboration with an M.I.T. ![]() It’s more for superyachts.” At Les Trois Chevaux in New York, the eggs of the Acipenser ruthenus, a small sturgeon known as the sterlet, are shaped into a quenelle tableside and plated with white asparagus, aerated béchamel and beurre de baratte-basted brioche. The most sought after is that of the beluga sturgeon but, says Hermes Gehnen, the founder of N25 Caviar, an international purveyor, “restaurants generally can’t afford it. So it’s perhaps no surprise that chefs are turning their attention to something more rarefied than your everyday osetra: albino caviar, which ranges in color from alabaster to golden, and is the result of uncommon mutations. These days, it seems that some restaurants will add a dollop of caviar to anything, from fried chicken to hamburgers, practically reducing the once-luxurious treat to a condiment. ![]()
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